R&R in Dakar

Houses on the Ile de Gorée seen from the ferry

R&R (Rest and Recuperation) is a fantastic concept: for every 8 weeks of work you get one week off.  I left Daloa last Friday and, after a weekend in Abidjan, headed to Dakar, Senegal, the westernmost city in mainland Africa, on a tiny peninsula that points out almost straight across the Atlantic to Puerto Rico.

Dakar is delightful.  I splashed out on a nice hotel (Sokhamon) in the Plateau district, which has long tree-lined boulevards and big government buildings.  Parts of it reminded me of London, oddly enough, with its guards in their little houses out in front of imposing gates.

Detail of tilework on the Great Mosque

At the IFAN museum I finally got to see sculpture from all the different ethnic groups in Cote d'Ivoire that I have been reading about (the museum in Abidjan appears to have been closed since la crise).  The IFAN exhibit is quite small, with mostly different types of carved wooden masks, but the pieces they have are spectacular.  I was really impressed.  And really happy to have some idea of what they were talking about!

A typical Dakarois bus - probably not all that safe, but colorful!

On the second day I took a ferry to l'ile de Gorée, a UNESCO World Heritage site for its former role of slave ship launching point.  One of the old houses has been converted into a powerful little museum about the slave trade.  I was sad to see that the Museum of Women has shut down, though - I had been looking forward to getting all feministy about the historical role of women in Senegalese society.  Still, just walking around the island was really pleasant.  There are lots of old houses and courtyards and a couple of small handicraft markets.  Since it's the holidays, a lot of people came from Dakar to go to the beach on the island, so there was a really happy, laid-back atmosphere.

On my last day I walked around the narrow streets and markets near the Great Mosque.    It was a totally different vibe than either Plateau or l'ile de Gorée - less touristy and less affluent, but just as welcoming.  I think that part was my favorite.

I may have to go back, just to make sure…