Happy Eid-ul-Fitr!

Ramadan-related food advertising came as a bit of a surprise

Tonight, if the Conseil Supérieur des Imams (Superior Council of Imams) gets credible reports of a moon sighting in Cote d'Ivoire, Ramadan 2014 will end and all the good Muslims in the country can celebrate Eid ul Fitr, the breaking of the fast.  It has already been spotted in Saudia Arabia apparently.  If it's too cloudy though (and it is rainy season) they have to wait until tomorrow.

I haven't quite worked out religion here.  In theory the north is predominantly Muslim, but a lot of traders originally from the north settled all over the country, sometimes going back several generations, so there is a Muslim presence even in the supposedly more Christian south.  Daloa, right in the center, has a Grand Mosque in the middle of town,  but also a cathedral, and dozens of evangelical churches.  They say the country is about 40% Muslim and 30% Christian but that the majority is animist.  That doesn't add up, so I guess you can go with how you're feeling at the moment.

A lot of the locals, ones I work with but also people around the city, visibly observed the fast.  Almost all of the troops here did too, being from Muslim countries - the only exceptions were the Bangladesh Air Force pilots, who practically apologized as they shared their lunch with me after taking me to a remote camp - the military rules prohibit them from fasting on days when they're flying.

There is clearly a sense of honor in observing, because only children and the sick (or pregnant) are exempt, and a certain pride that comes with exercising patience, but I was most impressed by the gratitude that it seems to bring out.  Gratitude for the health that entitles each to participate, and for the food and drink which they eventually share, and for the sharing itself, with friends and family and even strangers.

Wikipedia says the usual greeting for the breaking of the fast is Eid Mubarak, or Blessed Eid.  I tried that out on one of the security guards as he left for evening prayers and he looked at me blankly, so I'm not totally convinced.  It's getting dark now, so to all the Muslims in Cote d'Ivoire who are looking to the skies, I hope you see the moon, and wish you and all those celebrating (or waiting to celebrate) around the world a Blessed Eid.

Grand Mosque of Séguéla, one of the prettiest, I think

Some interesting links about Ramadan here: Huffington post, Ramadan.co.uk, and on the religions of Cote d'Ivoire (in French) here: Abidjan.net